By John Hoffman
Pruning an Apple Tree
The primary purpose of pruning any fruit tree is to promote growth and stimulate a quality harvest and fruit production. An added benefit of pruning is that it clears away parts of a tree that may have been by a severe storm, disease or insects.
INSTRUCTIONS
:
(For this pruning job you’ll need sharp pruning shears)
1. Mature apple trees are pruned during the winter before the new growth starts. January and February is the best time for pruning.
2. This step takes a bit of creativity or lacking that, research to find a good example of a healthy apple tree. The tree should have only one central, upright trunk with limbs growing outward in a perpendicular (parallel to the ground) direction. This is the pattern you used when deciding what branches are to be cut.
3. Remember, when making your cuts you want to minimize any damage to the bark of the tree. Closely inspect branches and remove those that exhibit evidence of disease or have an insect infestation.
4. To ensure that sunlight can reach all the leaves and fruit, make sure there is plenty of vertical space between limbs. Branches that are too close to the above or below should be removed. The bottom limbs should be approximately 24 to 36 inches above the ground.
5. When you find a healthy limb that is spaced well but growing vertical, it is better not to cut it off. Train the limb to grow outward by carefully hanging a weight approximately half way along the branch. The weight will do the training for you by gently forcing the limb to grow outward.
6. Don’t leave the cutoffs on the ground around the apple tree. Remove all the wood and , if permitted, burn it to ensure that all disease or insect larvae are destroyed. This prevents possible re-contamination. Also, do not forget to disinfect your tools, before using them for another pruning job.
I would like to mention that pruning an apple tree during the winter months will encourage summer growth. If the tree is growing too large for its designated area, prune it during the summer months. Apple trees are pruned annually.
Pruning an Asian Pear Tree
There is a slight difference of pruning techniques between a young Asian pear tree and an established mature tree. I have taken the liberty of describing how to prune/train a young Asian pear tree. Using proper pruning on a young tree, you will create a healthier mature tree, producing more fruit. Generally speaking Asian pears are pruned and maintained in a similar fashion to many apple trees and traditional pear trees. An olden Chinese saying, ‘Patience is Golden’ is very apropo for a with care and patience your tree will reach optimal size, shape and health.
INSTRUCTIONS
:
(you will need sharp pruning shears or pruning saw)
1. Your initial Asian pear planting will usually be a single whip which is pruned over the first 5 years to create a central leader form.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pJwxwwnejQ[/youtube]
2. The first spring after planting, remove any new branches below 2 feet. If you planted the tree in the spring, then it would be the tree’s second spring
3. The third spring, remove any branches below 2 feet. Additionally, select 3 to 5 of the strongest branches and keep those. Remove smaller or weaker branches to ensure growth energy is directed to the stronger branches. Cut out any branches that cross. Remember, in your pruning, to keep the tree balanced.
4. The fourth spring, continue to remove crossing branches and, naturally, branches below 2 feet. Prune off branches that are growing downward, we want to have the tree grow upward.
5. The fifth spring, again, removed crossing branches and those growing downward. This is the year you have graduated to general maintenance pruning.
Now you know why I said ‘patience’. Remember once your tree has reached the desired overall size, pruning is done best between late summer and late winter. Don’t forget to make your pruning cuts at an angle to discourage water from collecting on any open wounds.
Pruning a Cherry Tree
A properly pruned cherry tree will achieve best growth and yield the most fruit. There is a catch! Cherry trees are somewhat delicate and usually only live about 20 years under the best conditions. You must exercise caution when chopping off their branches. Cherry trees must be pruned or they will die of starvation because they cannot support their own unfettered growth. The pruning process should be treated like surgery.
INSTRUCTIONS
:
(you will need pruning shears and wound sealer or pruning paste)
1. Prune the cherry tree in the summer, after the fruit harvest. While most fruit trees are pruned in the winter, cherry trees are highly susceptible to a disease called Silver Leaf which strikes in the winter.
2. Cut off any dead or diseased branches. This will aid the tree in focusing on growing strong, flourishing branches and prevent diseases and bacteria.
3. Check at the base of the tree and remove any smaller seedlings that may be growing. One could dig them up;however, to eliminate any chance of damaging the tree’s root structure, it is safer to simply cut them off. Remember, they cannot stay there because they will die in the shade of the big tree and sap nutrients out of the soil that the tree needs so desperately.
4. Your cuts should be at an angle about 1/8 of inch above the bud. This prevents the branch from continuing to grow and not effect the general health of the tree. Angular cuts keeps water from sitting on the cut and creating an environment that will result in bacterial infection or disease.
5. All pruning cuts must sealed with pruning paste of a non-asphalt base. Pruning paste is to a cherry tree what a band aid is to us. It prevents the wound from getting infected.
Closing thought, try to shape your tree into a ‘V’ shape or an ‘open vase configuration.
Pruning a Lemon Tree
Lemon trees in a garden are a pure delight. In warm climates, you plant them in the ground and for those of you who happen to live in colder climates, lemon tree can be grown in containers. This gives one the option, with cold climate, put them into the garage or a greenhouse. Make no mistake, lemon trees should be and must be pruned for health and fruit abundance.
INSTRUCTIONS
:
(you will need sharp pruning shears, pruning saw)
1. When you begin to prune a lemon tree make sure not to cut more than 1/3 of the plant back every year.
2. Your pruning starts in the first or second year to begin training and make sure to trim back only 1/3.
3. Cut out all random branches to permit more air and sunlight reaching the main plant. This ensures that you’ll enjoy larger and more lush lemons. With pruning you get better fruit and you can train the tree to be much fuller and stronger.
4. Rule of thumb when pruning trees is to trim at an angle.
5. When cutting a larger branch to make a partial cut on the underside of the branch and then make your cut from the top of the branch approximately 1 further up from the undercut. This prevents the cut branch from ripping and damaging the bark of the tree.
6. Best time for pruning your lemon tree is right after it’s produced fruit in the fall and this will permit it to generate some new growth. One can prune it in the middle of winter as well, as long as it’s not growing or producing flowers.
In closing, remember not to trim too much and leave at least 3 to 5 main branches. Trim out the rest. Rest your laurels, and watch it grow, filling in those main branches and producing better fruit then if you had let it grow wild.
Pruning Orange Trees
Do you know what the best asset you can add to your landscape? Right, an orange tree! Not only do they present a magnificent appearance, they emit a wonderful aroma and give you a healthy delicious fruit. When an orange tree is blooming it fills the air with a delicate sweet aroma that is pleasing to all. An orange tree does not require a lot of pruning after they have been established.
INSTRUCTIONS
:
(you’ll need heavy-duty gloves, pruning shears, long-handled loppers, rubbing alcohol, optional-pruning saw, ladder, whitewash solution)
1. It is very important to prune your tree at the best time of the year. The date can be between January through March, dependent on you specific location. You will only have to prune every other year and must be accomplished before the blossoms appear.
2. Make a detailed inspection of your orange tree to decide what you are going to do. Watch out for any dead or diseased branches. Check the lower trunk are for any suckers that must be removed. Check the branches for crossing near the middle of the tree. Check your tree from several different angles.
3. Before you use your pruning tools, sterilize them with rubbing alcohol. This should be done before each orange tree is pruned, assuming you have more than one. One does not want to spread disease among the trees.
4. Start by removing any suckers that may be growing by making a vertical cut near the trunk of the tree. Remove all branches that crossing over the center. This opens up the center of the tree to sun light and air circulation. Remove all sickly branches. Whenever possible use your shears and pruning saw for larger cuts. These cuts should be protected from sunburn which is accomplished by not removing a lot of the upper branches unless it is absolutely necessary.
A bit of advice, if you feel you need to do a large amount of pruning on your orange tree, you should spread out over more than one year. Cut no more than a of the tree at any one time or you could hinder its growth and fruit production.
Use a ladder to cut any upper branches that are not within easy reach.
Last but least, do not use pruning paint on your orange tree. If you absolutely feel that something has to be done to prevent sunburn on the cuts, a watered-down whitewash solution should be used.
I would like to state that the above pruning instructions for the various fruit trees and as close as possible to be generic in nature. This means you must do a bit of research as to how the instructions pertain to your particular area. For example, I live in a relatively temperate zone which has very few frost days and no snow. However, in the summer we experience triple digit temperatures and a blazing sun for a major portion of the summer. Therefore, I must leave more foliage on my pruned trees for sunburn protection.
Happy pruning.
About the Author: As a retired aerospace engineer I transferred my technical writing skills to informative articles encompassing my new hobby, gardening and landscaping. This transition coupled with expertise advise and guidance I received from the knowledgeable staff at
tnnursery.net
has been invaluable
Source:
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